From size, to hook, to grip to bow…..this is what you want to know.

LENGTH:

This seems to be the trickiest thing to get right and depends on if it is a junior (34.0 - 36.0 “) or adult (36.0+ “). Hockey sticks have not really changed to centimetres.  Kavea, Epa and a few others are too tall for junior sticks. Most others probably suit this range. Hockey sticks can be cut down if they’re too long. Most importantly though, the length is more a decision of what the stick is made of. JUNIOR sticks often contain wood and can flex, ADULT sticks don’t flex, so they let you know if you get it wrong with inaccurate and often too fast passes.

Please do not buy a 37.5” stick , and you should take it back to them and get a 36.5”. This is like selling size 10 shoes to a size 7 foot. 

BOW:  

Big low bows are for 3D skills and upright dribbling, while straighter sticks are suited to power plays, monster hitting.

HOOK:

The hook angle effects if they can drag the ball in their stick, and how well they can play on their back hand. A 45 angle is the same porportion out as up. Go higher than this, say 55 and you have a strong hook, you will pass and flick off your back hand easier. Go lower say 40 and you can easier sit the ball in the stick and spin, even in the backward direction.

GRIP:

A good grip goes a long way. When playing in wet conditions, a synthetic rubber grip will slip, and you will lose performance. Sometimes these players will put a chamiox grip on if conditions are wet. Others always use a chamiox and will wet the grip in the turf before use. They can be taken off after games, just undo the tape. Epa is trialling on old-school 1970s grip. We’ll report back when its been tested a bit more.

STICK CONDITION:

An umprire can check using a metal ring that the stick must pass through. They can also stop players using sticks with sharp edges.

FIH HOCKEY BALL

Check out the picture of our match ball.